11/29/2023 The Incredible Women of Toba

I have met and have been so inspired by the incredible women on these journeys to both South Korea and Japan. Despite the many challenges they faced, they have overcome hardships we could only imagine. 

It only made sense that we continued our journey with a visit to a pearl farming family and some local amas (sea women). I confess I am NOT a fan of raw oysters. In fact, I think of them as snot on a half-shell. I did manage to find a small pearl, thanks to my teacher.

This woman actually designed, created, and sold

 this face mask years ago!

Much laughter during our discussion relating to the procreation of oysters. After all, there is an explanation for the pairing of couples below. Sadly, the family is witnessing the decline of pearl farming as other families move away, climate changes decrease the oyster population, and income declines.

The Local Amas 

The local amas are "sea women" who free dive without a breathing apparatus for octopus, lobster, sea urchins, and other marine delicacies along the coast. 

We discussed their profession and lifestyle before we had lunch in their diving hut precariously perched on the sea wall, enjoying the seafood they caught earlier that day.

When one of our travelers mentioned having ice cream for dessert, one of the ladies hopped on her motorcycle (they each had one), raced into town, and returned within 10 minutes. Proving once again just how incredible these women were.

11/28/2023 Faster than a Speeding Bullet!                               Tokyo to Nagoya to Ise to Toba.

 

Time to depart from our teeny, tiny room for places we've never visited. Our checked luggage went in one direction, and we headed toward the train station to catch the world's finest quick-transit Bullet Train (Shinkansen in Japanese) to Nagoya.

It wasn't my first ride on this incredible train. In 1975, my friends Betty, Peggy, and I enjoyed our first experience during a trip we took from Australia to the Orient during a summer break from teaching. 

Japan's Shinkansen bullet trains introduced the world to modern high-speed rail travel and currently operate at a maximum of 186 MPH. (Some can speed up to 200 MPH). As of August 2022, the fastest train on Earth, based on its record speed, is the Japanese L0 Series Maglev, which has a record speed of almost 375 MPH!

Miki, "#1 Japanese Trip Leader", would give us a heads-up as to the best shots of Mt. Fugi, and I managed to get some pretty good photos on a perfect weather day, despite the Bullet Train speed and trying to hold my cell phone steady while swaying on the platform between the cars.

I love trains and wish the U.S. invested more in them for public transportation. We had highly comfortable seats with plenty of legroom, spotless bathrooms, and spacious windows on either side for sightseeing. Boarding didn't require unending lines, dealing with the TSA, global entry, or check-in. The station signage was clear. 

We hopped aboard the Kintetsu Express train in Nagoya to continue our transfer to Ujiyamada Station. We were encouraged and had plenty of time to visit a 7-Eleven to pick up lunch when we changed trains as we headed to Toba. 

Below is the bento box I chose, along with a large Asahi beer for just under $15. I was in heaven! 

After arriving at the Ujiyamada Sation, we rode to the famous Ise Shrine ( a collection of shrines in a riverside complex with some structures dating back 2,000 years). It was a breezy Fall day that required layering for the journey while in the shaded woods, so I was pleased when we returned to the sunnier areas.

Miki

I never heard of Toba, Japan, but it was a fantastic experience, beginning with its phenomenal Hotel Todaya Toba, a destination for locals with few tourists. In fact, we were probably the only non-Japanese during our stay. It was like night and day compared to Tokyo's teeny, tiny Ginza Grand Hotel.

Check out this room and my view...

Poor red slippers are not allowed to journey 

beyond the toilet.

This hotel had multiple restaurants, so we had to pay attention to each of the coupons we were given for meals, or we would still be roaming the halls. I loved the two-sided placemats indicating if the table was taken or available. I never had to worry that my seat would be taken while I refilled my coffee cup or revisited the French toast station continuosly during breakfast.

continuously

Hotel Todaya had a swimming pool, spas and hot tubs, and masseuses. I enjoyed an hour-long deep tissue massage by a masseuse who couldn't believe how short my little fingers were. Her tugging and pulling were for naught.

Dinner was one amazing course after another. Almost everyone was in their kimono. I was too tired to change after my massage, so I documented everyone else instead.

But, the star of the hotel was the lobby robot. I loved watching the little ones'  fixated reactions - at first, fear and confusion, followed by copying the movements. I learned from watching them that there were six short programs on the touch screen (some were more animated than others, but the best was when Mica interacted with him).

D

11/27/2023 Make Some Serious Noise! 

Taiko drums have been used throughout Japan's history, from setting the beat for marching armies to adding tempo to boisterous festivals.

After we removed our shoes and descended to the sound-proof studio, we were greeted by the taiko drum master, a powerful, amazing 23-year-old female! (I fully expected to see a male, but I was pleasantly surprised that she was our speaker, composer, and no-nonsense instructor.)

I was honored to pose with our Taiko instructor 

and #1 Trip Leader, Miki, after our visit.

Taunting the teacher

The district of Asakusa is where old meets new during our visit to the Asakusa Temple in the ancient city.

Pagoda and Incense Burning.

 

The Asakusa Tower and the "Mysterious Golden Object" 

above the Asahi Beer Super Dry Hall.

 Shaped like a flame, it was installed in 1989 to celebrate the company's 100th anniversary, and represents the passion and dedication of Asahi Breweries. 

Delicious lunch at Gonpachi

 11/26/2023 Sumo Wrestler vs. Bonsai Master

We spent an interesting, informative, and hilarious hour visiting Mr. Bungonishiki, a man unafraid to lecture, wearing only a mawashi (loincloth).

Life as a wrestler is highly regimented, with rules regulated by the Japan Sumo Association. Pro Sumo wrestlers train intensely all morning, including stretching and calisthenics, hundreds of “shiko” (leg lifts), multiple warm-ups, and dozens of matches. They eat 10 times what a typical male eats, and all of it's done in two massive 10,000-calorie meals.

Only Paula and Mica were flexible enough to squat like a sumo and stand up afterward.

Most sumo wrestlers are required to live in communal sumo training stables, known in Japanese as heya. 

A Yokozuna, the highest rank in sumo, can never be demoted and never forced to share space with another sumo. As of September 2018, just 72 men have attained the status since it was first created in the late 1700s.

 

We had an enjoyable time trying to budge our host.

Sumos can be found everywhere in Tokyo. Three yokozunas were honored with sculptures near a busy intersection. My favorite one was across the street from McDonald's - perhaps there are better promotions for a healthy outcome. 

 

Many retired sumo wrestlers open restaurants that cater specifically to other sumos in training.

After lunch, we visited a local Bonsai garden with a young apprentice learning and maintaining the unique cultivation technique involving placing small trees in containers and pruning them to mimic the shape and scale of a full-size tree. My favorites were worth more than a million dollars.

Tokyo at night. Dinner and a festival.

Miso, rice, sashimi (could use more wasabi).

I didn't care for this course. Looked like bugs in the bowl.

Now you're talking...soup, shrimp and veggie tempura, lots of soy.